It’s Saturday night. The Boy and I are at our local pub, soothing the aches and pains of the day spent car-shopping with gin and ale. Not together obviously. We plan to have a quiet but delicious and unchallenging dinner at the small Vietnamese café round the corner, and then wend our way home for a port or two.
Drinks finished, we make to leave. A table sits reticently in the corner, festooned with all manner of magazines and newspapers. Being me, my eye immediately falls on a picture of a young red-haired girl, staring beatifically at a long strand of spaghetti that she has between her two hands, sucking it in from the middle through her small puckered lips. All Lady and The Tramp style.
Had her hair been curlier and brown, it could have been me. Pasta and I are the greatest of companions. We have been through a lot together, and I have always stuck by it – over-cooking, pesto, ‘bolgnese’, even the travesty that is ‘BBQ chicken’ pasta – all of which I have been made to endure either by UK restaurants or friends back when we were university students.
But, cooked correctly and served simply, it is a plate that will only ever elicit a very wide and very deep grin from me.
The Boy was arranging his effects (aka fannying), so I sauntered over to have a closer look at what the article related to. Within the first three lines The Eyebrow was up, where it would stay for a good while longer as I continued to read.
Some dietician had taken it upon herself to tell readers “five foods you must cut back on”. From the very title you get an idea of what tone the article will strike: imperatives, orders, proselytising as to what parents should and should not be feeding their young children. I am baffled and amazed at how she is able to know every child individually for what they and their body’s needs are.
These five demon-foods are refined carbohydrates, salt, sugar, processed meats and fat. And on the surface of that, I am with her – none of these food groups, taken in large amounts, is good for any body, young or old. However, the devil always lurks in the details.
With each paragraph, I felt myself sinking deeper and deeper into the vapid yet offensively prominent ocean of modern-psycho-babble nonsense that accompanies having children. Endless statistics and percentages and grams of daily allowances of saturated or refined or processed or raw or organic somethings.
Focussing on salt, ‘The guidelines’ ordain that young ones ‘between 1 and 3 should have no more than 2g salt a day, four to six-year-olds need only 3g, rising to 5g for seven to ten-year-olds and 6g for anyone over 11. Two slices of toast with butter and Marmite gives you 2.1g of salt’. And help is here for fat too, which should constitute ‘35 per cent of your daily calorific intake, which works out as about 60g a day for a six-year-old girl and up to 100g a day for a growing teenage boy. Children do need a bit of saturated fat, but only 10 per cent of the total fat intake should be saturated.’
Got all of that? Wee snippets of information there, easily remembered when one child is in the process of rendering your wall something from Twombly’s studio, and the other has taken to plugging its sibling’s ear holes with plasticine. Of course one can remember and calculate the percentile representation of salt and saturated fats in the egg and soldiers you are about to battle down their mouths.
Oh and watch out for the ‘soldiers’ – apparently one slice of white bread is akin to four packets of sugar, direct into the bloodstream. And don’t reach for the pasta or rice, unless they’re brown, or potatoes – anything white is a no go. They represent a ‘big bowl of nothing’. And topping them up on fruit is also a no-no: fruit = sugar. Instead of an apple, present your young tot with a stick of celery.
I must be super-human then, as between the ages of 10 and 17, so arguably the most active years for bodily developments and growth, I ate pasta with oil and not much else (perhaps some tuna or peas or tomato) four or five times a week. That’s 64.29% of all dinners. Just in case you wanted another statistic there. And after every dinner, there was fruit, not just one piece, but maybe even two. And I would have had some fruit at lunch too, and at break time. Total grams of sugar in my day from fruit = I-don’t-give-a-gram.
Here’s another statistic: that on said heinous diet of white pasta and white rice too (my father is Anglo-Indian so if it wasn’t pasta it was curry, and my parents are not of the ‘brown rice generation’.), I managed to become a top under-18 GB rower who went on to represent the country at the Junior World Championships twice.
Imagine that. All on white stuff.
And then there are our parents’ generations and all those before them, as well as nations like Italy and Spain, whom all have lived or continue to live without brown rice or pasta. In the 18 months I was in Italy, yes I saw brown pasta in the supermarket, but it was grouped with the gluten-free offerings, tucked away in the far corner of the aisles, gathering dust quietly. Not because Italians have anything against someone who cannot eat gluten (as in really cannot – body rejecting type ‘cannot’, not someone who blames their body shape on gluten and gluten only.), or who prefer brown pasta – it is because in Italy, the proportion of people with gluten ‘issues’ (or issues with gluten) or who believe that white pasta is bad, is gratifyingly small. They eat white pasta without fear, because their white pasta is good quality, and it is served with equally good quality home-made sauces, perhaps with a salad on the side, even, wait for it, with a piece of bread to ‘fare la scarpetta’ at the end…white on white. Sacrilegious heathens that they are.
My point is that ‘white’ does not equal obesity, just like ‘brown’ does not equal healthy, in the young or the old. It is quality that counts. Rather than obsessing over statistics, efforts should centre on finding the best quality of food that can be afforded, and on culturing a healthy relationship with food. Banning such universal foods such as white pasta or rice will only engender a fear of food . If there is something beneficial that they just will not eat, then devote energies to reinventing that hated item so that they start to reconsider their feud.
As for portions, little people are in the process of getting big, and they all do it at a different rate from the next, so who are you or any dietician to say how many grams they are allowed? I used to go for two or three weeks eating a mouthful at each meal, and then, out of the blue, I would rampage through meals like a deranged wildebeest, embarrassing my older brother with the amounts I would inhale each day.
And guess what? I am not obese. I am fit, healthy and happy.
I don’t have children, so these are all surmises based on observations of parents I know, and those I observe in my daily life. My reaction to this article (it had The Boy sweating that I would work myself up into such a tizz that I’d need to be taken home to have a tea-towel placed on my head, before our Vietnamese.) is so strong because I am both irritated and sad at the state of parenting nowadays. Professionals and experts spend their time banging on about theories and mechanisms through which one can ‘manage’ one’s child and their development, physical and psychological. Utilise them and your child will be perfect, ignore them and you will end up with…they shudder to think.
Pfft. Being a parent is at one and the same time the simplest and most complex thing we will ever do. Your child is precisely that, yours, so inside you lies an instinct that will guide you through the sticky bits. But then your child, whilst yours, is not you, so what works for you may not be right for them. But, at the end of it all, they are still humans. You don’t need a hand-book, you just need a pair of eyes to really absorb their being. The answer is always there, it’s just whether you’re looking in the right way.
If I am lucky enough to have children at some point I intend to parent them how I, and they, see fit, without statistic or percentage, and most definitely with pasta, in all its myriad colours.








